Nestled in The Craigs, Stirling, Nooch quickly gained its reputation as being the only fully plant-based restaurant in the city.
Opening its doors in November 2022, the restaurant offers diners an array of small plate dishes, bar snacks, desserts and cocktails. All of these menu items are curated to enhance the diverse events held throughout the week.
Brig had the pleasure of sitting down with James Leask, owner and chef, over coffee to discuss his passion for veganism and the challenges and triumphs of running his restaurant.
James’ journey into the world of vegan cuisine and subsequently creating a restaurant was gradual. “I was kind of a slow burner”, he admits. Although there existed a lifelong passion for food, James’ background was more as a home cook than in a professional kitchen. Around five years ago, James embraced a vegetarian diet and later veganism, which would spark his idea of creating his own small local business. After a year of planning, Nooch opened its doors.
Being the only fully plant-based restaurant is both relieving and daunting for James. “It’s good, but it’s daunting not knowing if there’s a market for it”, James explains. Despite the uncertainty of maintaining a customer base in a fully vegan setting, James notes that a lack of competition in Stirling takes away some pressure. Furthermore, he commented on the rising veganism movement in the UK as a whole “There is more and more out there” despite the ‘‘ups and downs” that may occur.
James expressed optimism about the future of veganism. “The more people think about what they are eating in conjunction with environmental issues, the more people will seek healthier alternative diets”, James stated. He believes that although the success of the movement will have its variability, the long-term trajectory is clear: plant-based restaurants will remain.
When discussing the interchangeable terms “vegan” and “plant-based”, James acknowledged the stigma that is often attached to the former. “It’s just to do with branding”, James answered, explaining that some companies opt for the term “plant-based” instead of “vegan” in their attempt to appeal to a broader, non-vegan audience. For James personally, both terms carry the same weight and mean the same thing, “I’m very comfortable with what we are serving is plant-based and vegan, and it’s up to them to make a choice”.
One of Nooch’s standout menu items is the Korean Fried Mushroom Burger, which has become the restaurant’s signature dish for the previous 18 months. “It’s so popular that it’s one I can’t take off now”, James said. Another customer favourite is the macaroni and cheese, which has received positive feedback from customers claiming it to be equally as good, and if not better, as the traditional dairy version.
Sustainability and eco-friendliness are at the core of Nooch’s culinary philosophy. James is committed to sourcing local and seasonal ingredients whenever possible. “Our coffee is roasted in Glasgow, and we try to source as local as possible. We are working within the season, trying to limit our carbon footprint”, James explains. This decision not only enhances the quality of dishes but supports local small businesses.
Nooch’s commitment to sustainability is evident in its operations. By being plant-based, it inherently reduces its carbon footprint when compared to traditional eateries. Examples of their eco-friendliness are in initiatives such as recycling fryer oil and adopting a green electricity plan.
Regarding ingredients, James uses nutriential yeast, Nooch, which dually serves as a primary ingredient and namesake. Nooch just sticks to “decent fruit and veg, nothing fancy, not re-inventing the wheel”, he tells me. In terms of avoided ingredients, Nooch does not use overly processed mock meats and, surprisingly, avocados. James explains his reason: “I don’t use avocado. The farming of it isn’t great”.
Running the only fully-plant-based restaurant in Stirling comes with its own set of challenges, “There are a ton of difficulties”, James explains. Some diners are sceptical of the restaurant’s concept, especially those accustomed to their traditional ‘meat and two veg’. “The number of people that come for a bacon roll is stupid”, he shares. However, he emphasises the overwhelming support from the local community, regulars and fellow small businesses.
Relentless commitment to the basics is a sobering aspect of running a restaurant. “It’s a lot of hard work” he admits. From managing finances and staff to adhering to health and safety regulations, the responsibilities can be overwhelming and monotonous. Being both the owner and chef means few days off, and even then, it was “hard to switch off” with an ever-expanding to-do list.
The dining atmosphere at Nooch is designed to be comfortable and inviting. “It’s no thrills in a good way”, James notes. With a friendly experience and a focus on community, the restaurant has cultivated a loyal customer base. At nighttime, candles create a warm and friendly atmosphere at Nooch, thanks to the front-of-house staff, states James.
To boost its nighttime customer base, Nooch has introduced various events to engage the community, including a weekly quiz and fortnightly live music. Recent initiatives include a weekly writers and Spanish group. Other efforts, such as outside catering, have been a success, “money-wise a good earner, but not feasible”. These events have helped keep Nooch vibrant, drawing in new customers and encouraging repeat visits.
Looking ahead, James is focused on introducing a winter menu while keeping customer favourites. “I don’t look further ahead than six months”, he shared, emphasising the importance of adaptability in the hospitality industry. James aims to introduce hearty winter dishes that cater to regulars whilst exploring unique and seasonal offerings.
James Leask’s journey with Nooch is a testament to the growing interest in plant-based dining and the importance of sustainability in the restaurant industry. With a commitment to quality seasonal ingredients, customer experience and environmental consciousness, Nooch is a reflection of a wider movement that is gaining attention across the UK. As James continues to innovate his menu, Nooch is certain to play a vital role in shaping Stirling’s dining landscape.
Featured image credit: Pexel’s Free Photos.
I am a third-year Politics and Journalism Studies student at the University of Stirling (2022-) and a writer and sub-editor for the Brig for over a year (Nov. 2023-), focusing mainly on political topics.
